Huayna Potosi
Huayna Potosi is a mountain in Bolivia with an elevation of 6,088 meters (19,974 ft). The mountain is located about 25 km (15 miles) north of La Paz in the Cordillera Real mountain range of the Andes Mountains.
Climbing the mountain of Huayna Potosi is very popular and is one of the world's most visited "6000ers" (mountain peaks over 6000 meters). It is one of the few 6000m-peaks in South America that can be climbed by people with little to no mountaineering experience.
It is often called one of the easiest "6000ers" in the world. However the easiest route entails an exposed ridge and sections of moderately steep ice. There are many 6000m mountains that are much easier to climb in terms of technical difficulty. The main reason Huayna Potosí has been called one of the easiest 6000m climbs is that the elevation gain from trailhead to summit is less than 1400 meter and with easy access from La Paz. Since La Paz lies at 3600 meters, climbers have an easier time acclimatizing.
Climbing Huayna Potosi
There are two approaches to this mountain,
the east and the west face. The east face starts at the dam, just past Refugio. Base camp, called Campamento Argentino, is at 5,500 meters (18,000ft) and can be reached in two hours after you arrival at Huayna Potosi Glacier. There are three alternatives for the approach to the peak. The first and most popular follows the ridge, the second, longer route goes to the bergschrund before ascending the ridge.
Those doing the west face will climb the largest face in Bolivia. It's 1,000 meters (3,300ft) high, with several difficult snow and ice routes and pitches around 50° and some as steep as 70°. This route is more for the strong, with lots of stamina and experienced.
Huayna Potosí can be mounted in two daily stages. Climbers generally take a 4x4 up the valley on a gravel road from El Alto taking about two hours to reach a car park at 4700m, Zongo Pass (where a base camp may or may not be established). There is a recently established refugio here. They are happy to book walk ins if they have rooms available, and a reduced price can be negotiated outside of the peak season.
(photo: Refugio Huayna Potosi)
From here it is a 1-3 hour hike up to the high camp at 5200 meters on the snow line (Time taken depends greatly on acclimatization and fitness). It consists of a number of areas of leveled rocks suitable for pitching tents.
As of 2006, there is a refuge at the high camp where it is possible to stay the night for around $10. Booking is preferable, and essential during peak season. Conditions are spartan, with all sleeping mattresses placed next to each other on the upper level in two rows.
Most climbers begin their summit attempt between midnight and 3 AM. Fit and well acclimatized climbers rise and leave later, overtaking other groups during the climb, and can reach the summit in around 34 hours, but people frequently take twice that time.
The route is usually clearly visible between the penitentes, and follows the main glacier up directly (across the bergschrund and directly up a ridge) or along an arête on the right. Following that it curves behind the mountain when viewed from Zongo pass. The final approach is fairly exposed, either directly to the summit, or along the summit ridge. The summit is small and frequently has a pronounced cornice, reducing usable space.
Morning sunshine causes the snow to become less stable for walking, and increases avalanche risk from 8am onwards. The views on a clear morning from the summit are unbelievable - the mountain is far higher than anything else anywhere nearby, and the Cordillera Real, Lake Titicaca, La Paz, and part of the Altiplano they reside on are all visible.
Snow and ice conditions determine your times and sometimes your routes. This mountain should not be climbed during the rainy season due to the possibility of avalanches. Your guides will advise you as to the best routes to take depending on the conditions.
